Labels

90th Kokufu-ten Exhibition (1) ABC (4) ABC4 (1) Akira Bonsai (2) ambrevatte (1) Apple (1) AusBonsai (1) Bilimbi (1) Bilimbi Rond (1) Bjorn Bjorholm (1) Bjorvala Bonsai Studio (1) Bonsai (67) bonsai artists (5) Bonsai Club Mauritius (5) bonsai competition (1) bonsai competition 2013 (3) Bonsai Europa (1) Bonsai Events (2) bonsai experiment (1) Bonsai From Seed (8) Bonsai Lovers (2) Bonsai Mauritius (60) Bonsai Mauritius for Sale (6) Bonsai nursery Mauritius (4) Bonsai progression (18) Bonsai Videos (1) Breynia (1) Carving (1) casuarina 001 (1) cherry (2) Clerodendrum (2) Clerodendrum Bonsai (2) Clerodendrum Smithianum Bonsai (2) Clerodendrum Smithianum Bonsai 001 (2) Cryptomeria 001 (1) Cryptomeria japonica (1) cuphea (5) cuphea 001 (2) cuttings (1) deadwood (1) DIY (1) Eagle Entrepreneur Award (1) false bonsai mauritius (1) fern (1) ficus (7) Ficus 002 (1) Ficus 003 (2) Ficus benjamina (2) Ficus bonsai (5) ficus retusa (1) ficus retusa bonsai (1) ficus rubiginosa (2) ficus rubiginosa #2 (2) François Jeker (1) Hem Collection (3) Jan Culek (2) John Naka (1) juniper (3) Kaori Yamada (1) kusamono (3) lantana (1) Laurent Breysse (1) Leucaena Leucocephala (3) Light Bulb Clerodendrum (2) Ligustrum (8) lime sulphur (2) Malpighia coccigera (4) Mauritius (15) moss (1) Nebari (4) Noelanders Trophy (1) ofBonsai (1) pine (1) Pinus Elliottii (1) Privet (4) Privet 001 (1) Privet 002 (1) Privet 003 (1) privet 011 (1) Repotting (8) rose (1) Ryan Neil (1) Ryuga (1) saika bonsai (1) Sakura (1) seed (6) Sergio Martínez (1) Shohin (1) Slash Pine (3) Slash Pine 001 (1) Slash Pine bonsai (2) Slash Pine Hem 002 (1) Smithianum (2) Species Guide (1) Styling (1) Tomio Yamada (1) Tony Tickle (2) Trochetia (1) Trochetia Boutoniana (1) Vaneron Garden Center (2) Walter Pall (3) white pine (1) Wiring (5) World Shohin Photo Awards (1) Yajay Goindo (1) Yamadori (2)
Showing posts with label Nebari. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nebari. Show all posts

2012-10-30

Cryptomeria japonica : Giving it a try

I bought this Cryptomeria japonica [ Japanese cedar ] back in July 2012. I had no real bonsai plans for it and for the last months it was left in it nursery bag and left alone in the garden. Some weeks ago I saw several long roots going out of the bottom of the bag and decided a re-potting was in order. In the end I ended up deciding to give this plant a go at turning it into a bonsai and work on improving its root system.

J'ai acheté ce Cryptomeria japonica [Cèdre du Japon] en Juillet 2012. Je n'avais pas de reals projets pour le convertir en bonsaï et pour les mois qui suivirent, il a été laissé dans son sac de pepiniere et laissé dans le jardin. Il y a quelques semaines, j'ai vu plusieurs racines sortir du fond du sac ce qui m'as forcé a faire un rempotage. A la fin je me suis mis a rechercher comment ameliorer le system radicire pour le convertir en bonsaï.

Monn aste sa Cryptomeria japonica [ Cedar ] la en Zuillet 2012. Mo pas tinn prens li pou fer bonsai are li premier cout. En de semainn parla monne trouv racine pe sorti par enbas so pot. Pendan ki mo ti pe repot pied la, so sistem racinn ti pe paret interessant pou fer li vinn en bonsai. Abe lerla monne decide arranze so racinne pou ki pli tard kapav fer li vinne en bonsai.

Cryptomeria japonica material




 The root system, after cleaning up the soil
 Le système racinaire, après avoir nettoyé la terre
 So sistem racinn kan inn fini netoye so la ter

Cryptomeria japonica material





 There were several taproot that needed to be removed
 Il y avait plusieurs racine pivotante qui devait être retiré
 Ti ena en tas racinn epais ki servi pou tinis pied la dans la terr, sa banne racinn la in bizin tir zot.


Cryptomeria japonica material




 Lateral root and thicker roots that would eventually develop into lateral roots were identified and removed.

 Les racines latérales et racines plus épaisses qui finirait par se transformer en racines latérales ont été identifiés et éliminés.

 Mo finn tir bann pli gro racinn. 


Cryptomeria japonica material




 Finer roots and feeder roots are favored and kept as far as possible close to the trunk. Feeder roots at the end of long lateral roots are reduced to fit into the rootball.

 Racines fines et les racines nourricières sont favorisé et maintenu autant que possible près du tronc. Les racines nourricières à la fin de longues racines latérales sont réduites pour tenir dans la motte. 

 Monn gard bann racinn fin et tipti racinn ki servi pou nourri pied la, ek monn finn assir mwa ki zot pre ek tron pied la. Bann racinn ki tro long finn rakourci.


Cryptomeria japonica material




 The rootball after the inital root pruning. The thick lateral roots are gone, the long lateral root have been reduced, and the mass of finer feeder roots have been kept. There are still 4 lateral roots that I kept because there was lots of feeder roots sprouting from them. Those lateral roots will be reduced at the next repotting. 

 Voici la motte après la taille des racines. Les grosses racines latérales ont disparu, les longues racines latérales ont été réduits, et la masse des racines nourricières fines a été conservé. Il y a encore 4 racines latérales que j'ai gardé car il y avait beaucoup de racines nourricières germination d'eux. Ces racines latérales seront réduits au rempotage suivant.

 Ala leta sistem racinn la apre in fini taille li. Ena enkor enn de gro racinn kin pann koupe akot ena enn ta tipti racinn ki sorti ar zot. Sa bann long racinn la mo ava diminier zot kan pou bizin fer enn lot repot lor li.

Cryptomeria japonica material




 The plant was placed at the center of a training pot, and the roots were disposed in a radial disposition around the trunk.

 La plante a été placée au centre d'un pot de formation, et les racines ont été disposées dans une disposition radiale autour du tronc.

 Inn met pied la au milieu en pot ek inn tall so bann racinn autour pied la koumadir en la rou bicyklet.

Cryptomeria japonica material




 Finally the roots were covered with earth. This will be allowed to recuperate for 12 months or so and allowed to grow freely to thicken up the trunk and grow new ramifications.

 Les racines ont été recouvertes de terre. La plante va récupérer pendant 12 mois au moins et seras permis de se développer librement pour épaissir le tronc et développer de nouvelles ramifications.

 Bann racinn la inn rekouver ek la ter. Mo pou laiss pied la trankil pendan environ enn 12 moi par la, sa ava aide peid la grossi ek fourni nouvo branches.

Japanese Cedar : Repotted

2012-08-15

Privet 001 - Working on nebari

Privet [ Ligustrum ] 001 - Working on the nebari


This was one of the first trees it tried to create into a bonsai.
Privet [ Ligustrum ] are really good trees for beginners.
Its a fast grower, it easily roots, it gives off shoots almost anywhere on the tree [ trunk, branches and even exposed roots ] and it readily gives off small leaves.

If you are in the tropics and want to start with a tree to turn into a bonsai, privet [ Ligustrum ] is for you!
An alternative is ficus [ F. Benjamina, F. Retusa, etc ]

This privet was collected in 2010, then after 1 year of stupidity on my part, i.e. I potting the plant into a bonsai pot from the start, Jerry Norbury suggested that I "place it in the ground, to allow it to thicken up and improve the roots". When you are starting up and you get all those youtube vids that just take the plant out, repot them and "presto" you get a "quick" bonsai, hearing someone suggesting that you put your tree back into the ground is really the last thing you want to hear...

It took me some months, but I ended doing just what Jerry suggested.
I placed the tree back into the ground in 2011 to thicken up and improve the nebari.

Some weeks ago, the tree was starting to grow some new shoots.
It was the right time to check on the roots , so I uprooted it to look at how it was doing and do some corrections it was needed.

Normally you would do this type of operation every 2~3 years in a temperate region, but in the tropics you get two to three growth cycles per year.


Back in 2011 - Before placing it into the ground.
Zoom on the roots - The trunk is very thin after 1 year training
and the nebari [ surface roots ] are non existant.
"In the ground"
After 1 year - the main trunk has thickened up
and the primary branches too.
A 15mm diameter
The root mass uncleaned.
Long lateral root - This is bound to happen in the ground.
The lateral root will spread long and wide from the tree, and
the feeder roots will develop at the end.

We want to avoid this when creating a bonsai.
The lateral roots should be cut back closer to the
 trunk to promote denser feeder roots near the trunk.
The root ball cleaned
A long and thick lateral root. This will be
reduced in length.
Identifying potential nebari
Identifying potential nebari
Another long lateral root that will have
to be reduced in length.
The root system underneath - I'm looking for tap root formations.
Tap roots are necessary for anchoring trees into the ground,
but its not necessary inside a bonsai pot.
Found one tap root [ starts from the middle
of the root and moves out towards the bottom left ] that will be removed.
The plant was placed deep into the ground, several roots
occured on the trunk itself.
After removal of the root on the trunk.
Lateral root that needs to be reduced
Same lateral root after it has been reduced
Several roots shooting out of the main trunk
Much better
I was going to keep that root, but most of the nebari
is present much below. I ended up removing it completely.
The root was thick, to avoid any splitting the root was
removed in several stages
Nearly done
Completely removed
Checking the root for any other issues
This root is crossing over one another. When those two
roots thicken this might become an issue.
Seperated roots
Back into the ground.